San Besso

Access

The sanctuary can be reached from Campiglia Soana (1,321m) via a well-marked path (approx. 1 h 45 min, difference in altitude +700m). Alternatively, it is possible to ascend from Lillaz in Valle di Cogne (about 4 hrs, via the Colle della Nouva), rising to over 3,000m before descending again to the Piedmont side.
During the August pilgrimage, overnight stays are at the shelter attached to the sanctuary or in the Campiglia facilities. Access is not recommended in the presence of persistent snow or adverse weather conditions.

Introduction

Located at the foot of Monte Fautenio, between the valleys of Campiglia Soana and Cogne, the Sanctuary of San Besso is one of the most evocative places of devotion in the Graian Alps. Situated within the Gran Paradiso National Park, at an altitude of over two thousand metres, it can only be reached on foot, and has for centuries been the destination of a double pilgrimage that symbolically unites Piedmont and Valle d'Aosta.
Its origins lie in the legend of the martyrdom of San Besso, a figure venerated both as a soldier of the Theban Legion and as a local shepherd saint. The cult, still alive today, mixes ancient Christian traditions and reminiscences of pre-Christian rites linked to the generative power of rocks and mountains.

Description

Historical background and tradition

According to tradition, Besso was a soldier of the Theban legion, a Roman military formation converted to Christianity and exterminated at Agaunum (today Saint-Maurice, Switzerland) around 286 AD, for refusing to sacrifice to the pagan gods.
Having escaped the massacre, Besso is said to have found refuge among the mountaineers of the Val Soana, to whom he brought the word of the Gospel, until, captured and mistreated, he was precipitated from Monte Fautenio. Some versions, however, differ considerably: a breviary from 1473 speaks of a martyrdom that occurred after a clash with local shepherds, while other traditions, collected in the 20th century, make him a pious local shepherd, pushed off the cliff out of envy. There is no lack of hypotheses that identify in San Besso a bishop of Ivrea who lived in the 8th century, a sign of the plurality of legends that have converged in the cult of the saint.

The sanctuary and the cult

The sanctuary, built on the cliff known as the "rock of Besso", stands on the spot believed to be the site of the martyrdom. The current building, which has been rebuilt several times, retains the architectural layout typical of high-altitude sanctuaries, with a chapel leaning against the large rock and a shelter for pilgrims.
Each 10 August - the main day of the festival - the faithful come on foot from either Campiglia Soana or Cogne, after a long walk through Alpine passes. In former times, many participants wore the traditional costume of their respective valleys. The procession makes a ritual lap around the cliff, symbolically evoking the presence of the saint and the bond between the two communities.
In the past, the honour of carrying the statue of San Besso was the cause of heated disputes between the Campigliesi and Cognensi, now resolved in a shared ceremony, a sign of brotherhood and continuity. The stone of the sanctuary, from which small flakes considered sacred were once detached, is still surrounded by a strong popular devotion for its presumed thaumaturgic virtues.

Cultual and symbolic elements

The veneration of San Besso preserves evident traces of pre-Christian rites. The cult of the rock and the reference to fertility seem to recall ancient beliefs linked to the generative power of the mountain. Curiously, the name and iconographic representations of Saint Besso - often depicted with a feathered helmet - recall the Egyptian deity Bes, also protector of fertility and homes.
The saint is also the patron saint of soldiers and traditionally invoked against the dangers of war, testifying to the legend's martyrial origin.
His emblem includes: palm, sword, banner, Mauritian cross, helmet with ostrich feathers.

Information

Altitude: 2.010 m
Difficulty of access: E (Hiking)
Rise time: 1 h 45 min from Campiglia Soana
Recommended period: June - September
Official pilgrimages: 10 August, 1 December
Patronage: Campiglia Soana, Valprato Soana, Cogne
Emblem: palm, sword, banner, Mauritian cross, feathered helmet