Aiguille du Chardonnet

Introduction

The Aiguille du Chardonnet, at an altitude of 3,824 metres, is one of the most distinguished and renowned elevations of the Mont Blanc massif, located in the Haute Savoie department, a short distance from the Swiss border. Its slender profile emerges at the bottom of the Arve valley and towers above the Argentière glacier, while on the Swiss side it accompanies the outline of the Val Ferret. The surrounding environment is typically glacial and offers spectacular views, particularly on the northern slope, marked by extensive snowfields and glaciers that shape the landscape and influence the local climate, which is harsh and changeable - with the optimum conditions for ascents mainly between May and June.

Description

From a mountaineering point of view, the summit has an intense and prestigious history: the first documented ascent was carried out on 1 August 1879 by Percy W. Thomas with the guides Josef Imboden and Josef Marie Lochmatter, who tackled the Forbes ridge, one of the most elegant and classic itineraries of the entire group, characterised by AD difficulty and variable exposure. Subsequently, the mountain saw repeated ascents and the opening of new routes, such as the Migot spur (AD+), first equipped by A. Migot and C. Devouassoux in July 1929. The latter route is known for its succession of ice and mixed sections, with a maximum gradient of 65°, which tests the climbers' technical mastery. Other notable ascent routes include the Goulotte Escarra and ridge routes from different sides, each with their own peculiarities and levels of commitment, all well documented by reports on the main mountaineering sites and portals.
The Aiguille du Chardonnet area traditionally falls within the SOIUSA categorisation of the Mont Blanc-Graie group, in a region steeped in history and traditions related to both pioneering mountaineering and the evolution of ice climbing techniques. The summit also represents a symbolic element for the local communities, constantly present in mountaineering literature and in the narratives that animate the mountain culture of the Chamonix valley and neighbouring valleys.
The name 'Chardonnet' probably derives from the French root 'chardon', which means thistle, suggesting a sharp and rugged shape, well descriptive of the mountain's sharp profile.
For those wishing to attempt the ascent, the main access point is the Albert Premier refuge (2,702 m), which can be reached on foot or by cable car from the village of Le Tour, near Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. From here, after an approach across the glacier of Le Tour, you attack the glacial basin on the north side in about 2 hours and 30 minutes. The descent routes mainly take place along the west ridge and include sections of rappelling on rock, with a return to the glacier and then to the hut. The logistics can also be supplemented by Swiss support points, such as the Cabane du Trient.
Accessing the summit always requires scrupulous preparation, with complete high-altitude equipment (ice axes, crampons, ice screws) and knowledge of the glacier conditions, which are subject to rapid seasonal variations. The main critical points are crevasses, variations in snow conditions and the risk of seracs along the main routes.

Information

Table: 3824m
Alternative name: -
Mountain group: Dolent Range-Tour Noir-Argentière
 First ascent: 01/08/1879
 First ascenders: Percy W. Thomas with Josef Imboden and Josef Marie Lochmatter
 First ascents in winter:
First ascents in winter: