Edited by:
Massimo Martini
Born in Valfurva on 26 September 1914, where he resided during his childhood years and his long period of military service where he excelled in Nordic skiing. He was born in Valfurva in 1914 where he resided during his childhood years and his long period in the military where he excelled in Nordic skiing. He moved to the shadow of the Matterhorn in 1934 and took up mountaineering. The looming presence of the Gran Becca made him one of the strongest rock climbers of the time (he climbed the Matterhorn almost a hundred times), which earned him a place in the important expedition, led by [[Ardito Desio]], to conquer [[K2]]. On 31 July 1954, he reached the coveted second peak on earth, in the company of Lino Lacedelli. After the honours for the feat, a long controversy began with Walter Bonatti over how he reached the summit, which only died out in recent years. Having achieved fame (he also appeared in the film 'The Great War' by Mario Monicelli) he remained in contact with the mountains in his role as a mountain guide and hotelier. In May 2009, he died in Aosta after a short stay in hospital.