Ferrata Gamma Uno at Pizzo d'Erna
Edited by:
Rita Tarussello
Introduction
The Gamma 1 at Pizzo d'Erna is one of the best known and most practised ferrate in the Lombardy Pre-Alps. There are two features that characterise it most: the strong exposure and the number of ladders that never seem to end. On the other hand, it is not a difficult ferrata, but it is rather physically demanding, due to the height difference of almost 600 metres to overcome. Very interesting from a panoramic point of view, with magnificent views of Lake Lecco, the Grigne and the Lombardy plain. In good weather, the profile of the more distant Graian and Pennine Alps can be seen on the horizon.
Description
Behind the car park towers the vertical west face of Pizzo d'Erna, on which there is a large cross and several repeaters. On a wall to the right of the cable car entrance is a panel indicating the various paths to Pizzo d'Erna and Resegone. Take path no. 1, which descends for a few dozen metres and meets the mule track to the right for the Stoppani hut. After about twenty minutes, leave it on the left, near the signpost for the ferrata. Take the little path that climbs steeply for about 10 minutes to the attack. A chain starts from the signpost and climbs steeply up a fairly challenging but not difficult rock face. After a vertical section, the route turns right on an equipped but easy route up to the first ladder, after which a ledge to the right leads to the second ladder. The first section of the ferrata is overcome by a succession of stairs that are always very exposed but safe, alternating with climbable sections, with stirrups placed on the most demanding parts. Finally, we come to a traverse to the right, also with high exposure, which leads to another staircase after which we reach a balcony that marks the end of the first part of the ferrata. From this beautiful and panoramic balcony, a small path starts to the right, which can be used as an escape route and leads to the Stoppani hut and again to path no. 1. To the left, however, is the continuation of the ferrata via a path leading to the second section. A wall surmountable with sections of easy rock, where the chain is always present, is followed by a small gully after which a ladder must be climbed, followed by sections of not difficult rock. One then arrives in the vicinity of the short Tibetan bridge, characterised by two ropes (one for the feet and the other for the arms, or rather, above all for the carabiners!) which is accessed via a vertical, exposed and rather demanding section, after which one must ascend a small ridge and then a traverse to the right until the rope attachment. The bridge, which is only a few metres long, crosses a landslide gully and ends on a vertical wall equipped with two ladders in succession, of which only the last step of the first is used and, with the help of a peg, one immediately secures oneself to the second. You then arrive at the end of the climb, where you come to an almost level path that leads to the last two rocky spurs, which you overcome in turn with the umpteenth series of the endless ladders that characterise this ferrata. You reach a second bridge, much more comfortable than the first, if not excessive, that leads to the base of the second spur, which is overcome with the last stairs, at the exit of which you reach the Pizzo d'Erna cross (1375 m). For the descent, you can use path no. 7, which descends joining path no. 1 to the Stoppani hut and from there to the car park, or you can continue to the summit of the Resegone via the numerous paths that start from the Piani d'Erna. As a last alternative, for those who are really tired, there is always the cable car, open all year round.
We have been there
Edited by:
Ermanno Panara