Tsantelèina

Introduction

A very demanding tour in the final 500 metres. You have to tackle a steep slope (40°). Up to the Col de Tsantelèina it is very easy. Spectacular environment. Only to be done when the wall is in excellent condition.

Description

From Rhemes (1740m), follow the cross-country ski tracks to Thumel (1879m). From here, follow the summer trail (signs) to the Benevolo hut, which passes near a chapel (1936m), passes high up on the Dora, crosses the Barmaverin pastures (2037m) and arrives at the Roman bridge over the Dora. It crosses the Dora and ascends by bumps to the Lavassey mountains and the Benevolo hut (2285m).

From the hut, descend to the right to cross the Dora, then climb the steep slope on the right and with a long diagonal, cutting across very steep slopes, you arrive at the basin of the Granta Parei lake (2576m).

On much less demanding slopes, you reach the basin of Lac de Tsantelèina (2696m) below the east face of Granta Parei. If in doubt, it is possible to get here by starting from the hut and proceeding to the left of the Truc de Tsanteleina, bypassing it and then ascending on moderate slopes to the right, through a small valley and with a short steeper section.

From the lake, continue on the gently sloping glacier, skirting the entire face of the Granta Parei.

On reaching the summit, head decisively towards the wide col de Tsantelèina (3154m), which is reached by tackling a steep escarpment (a rope is sometimes useful).

From the col, turn left and reach the base of the wall. You tackle it by keeping as far to the right as possible, less steeply, where you can ascend on skis. Head for an obvious gully in the rock bar (you usually leave your skis here) and climb to the summit (3601m).