The Contraband Routes and the Cadorna Line

Description

Parking the car, we find in front of us the entrance to the path with the first of the panels of the "Trail of the Trenches" recently arranged by Ersaf (the Lombardy Forestry Authority) and the Lario Intelvese Mountain Community. It is a thematic path that is partly followed by the highly evocative itinerary described, which explains and documents the excavations relating to the defensive line erected by the Italians during the First World War. We thus enter a beautiful beech wood, shady and cool even in summer despite the not very high altitude (1,000 metres). In an ascent that is never steep, following the obvious track even though it is substantially devoid of markers except for one that curiously enough is found on the only chestnut tree in the area, we approach the border and the first outcrop of trenches. Although short, the path between the dry stone walls is suggestive, and to the right of these is a boundary stone. Once out of the trench, you immediately reach the second "find", a 20-metre tunnel dug right into the valley that turns towards Switzerland. We now resume the path with an easy climb along a comfortable carriage road that leads us to the crossroads where on the left we go in the direction of San Fedele di Intelvi, on the right we go towards the Fò di Parol and straight on towards the Orimento mouth (1.15 hours). Our itinerary then takes a right and after a last visit to the further remains of trenches and tunnels, we leave the path of the trenches, which will be taken in part on the return journey. Following an elevated path in about 20 minutes, we arrive at the famous Fò di Parol, a spectacular centuries-old beech that seems to act as a sentinel to the nearby border line. The route now follows a straight high-altitude path, but becomes narrower. Proceed in single file for another 20 minutes, arriving at the crossroads that leads right to Alpe Agogno in Switzerland. Instead, turn right uphill to the Fò di Boot, which has been declared a monumental tree by the Lombardy region due to its age and impressiveness; here there is a spring where it is possible to refresh oneself. Having left this beech tree behind, continue on to the nearby Alpe di Gotta, a splendid alpine pasture that has recently been renovated and is once again used for summer grazing. After crossing the entire alpine pasture on the uphill carriage road, we arrive in a few minutes at Barco dei Montoni, where there is an equipped area for a rest (2.15 hours from the start). During the ascent, there are frequent sightings of roe deer. From Barco dei Montoni, ignore the signs that lead to the summit of Monte Generoso and proceed straight ahead for 200/300 metres along the fence of a farm. When you reach the col, do not abandon the more evident track by going left where you will again find a signpost of the trench path. "Once you have 'stepped over' the edge of the pasture, you find yourself on a small road in the middle of a wood of laburnums (the only one I know of in Lombardy!). Turn left and begin the descent on an easy cart track that re-enters the beech forest and crosses new excavations of the Cadorna Line to bring us back to the trivio already encountered on the outward journey (3.30 hours). Along the outward path we return to the car.